Buenos Aires – Recoleta, San Telmo & Puerto Madero

After breakfast we caught an Uber to our first destination of the day, the famous Recoleta Cemetery. Prior to entering the cemetery we spent a short while looking around the Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar. It dates from 1732 and is an example of Spanish Colonial Baroque architecture. 

The entrance to the Recoleta Cemetery is just a short walk away. It is one of the world's most famous cemeteries, renowned for its extraordinary collection of ornate mausoleums and monuments, including the tomb of Eva Perón. The remarkable mix of architectural styles makes it a fascinating place to wander.

No visit to Recoleta Cemetery would be complete without seeing the tomb of Eva Perón, better known as Evita. Although it is one of the cemetery's best-known attractions, the Duarte family mausoleum is surprisingly modest and easy to walk past if you don't know what you're looking for. Evita was First Lady of Argentina from 1946 until her death in 1952 at the age of just 33. Deeply loved by many Argentinians for her work with the poor and her support for women's rights, she remains one of the country's most iconic and influential figures. Even today, visitors from around the world pause here to pay their respects, often leaving flowers in tribute.

One of the highlights of Recoleta Cemetery is its remarkable collection of statues, sculptures and memorials. Almost every corner reveals another beautifully crafted monument, making the cemetery feel more like an open-air museum than a place of burial.

One of the most thought-provoking memorials is the statue of a woman and her dog. It commemorates Lilian Crociati de Szaszak, who died on her honeymoon in Austria in 1970. According to local legend, her faithful dog Sabú remained devoted to her memory and is said to have died beside her tomb. Whether entirely true or not, the touching story has made the monument one of the cemetery's most photographed and recognisable memorials.

Not every tomb has stood the test of time. As the mausoleums are privately owned, their condition often depends on whether descendants are still able to care for them. Some have been lovingly restored, while others quietly show the effects of age, adding to the character and history of the cemetery.

One of the cemetery's most poignant memorials is the statue of a young woman opening the door of her family mausoleum. It commemorates Rufina Cambaceres, who died in 1902 at the age of just 19. According to local legend, she was mistakenly declared dead and awoke after being buried alive, becoming known as "the girl who died twice." Although historians question whether the story is true, it has become one of Recoleta Cemetery's most enduring and haunting tales.

After leaving Recoleta Cemetery, we headed to the nearby Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Home to one of Latin America's finest art collections, the museum showcases works by both Argentine artists and European masters. Among the highlights we saw was La Clarina, Antonio Carlo Tantardini's beautifully carved marble sculpture from around 1870. There is also a small but interesting collection of artefacts from the indigenous cultures of South America before the arrival of the Spanish. Admission is officially free, although the donation machine seemed to be the first exhibit we were introduced to by the security staff.

While the museum is best known for its collection of European paintings and sculptures, it also embraces modern and contemporary art. Alongside works by renowned Argentine artists are thought-provoking installations, religious reinterpretations and experimental pieces that challenge traditional ideas of art. The contrast between the classical galleries and these more contemporary works makes the museum particularly rewarding to explore, with every room offering something different.

A smaller gallery is devoted to pre-Columbian art, showcasing artefacts created by the indigenous peoples of South America before European colonisation. The collection of ceramics, sculptures and ritual objects provides an intriguing insight into the region's rich cultural heritage and offers a striking contrast to the museum's European and modern art collections.

From the museum, we wandered down Avenida Alvear, one of Buenos Aires' most prestigious streets. Lined with grand mansions, luxury hotels and embassies, it offers a glimpse of the city's wealth during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. 

Once we reached the bottom of the avenue, we caught a taxi to our next destination, San Telmo. One of the oldest parts of Buenos Aires, it is known for its cobbled streets, historic buildings and lively atmosphere, offering a completely different side to the city from the elegance of Recoleta.

Tango is woven into the identity of Buenos Aires, and nowhere is this more evident than in San Telmo. Around Plaza Dorrego, couples perform in the open air, their elegant movements drawing crowds of locals and visitors alike. We spent a while watching the street performers before exploring the famous Mercado de San Telmo, a bustling covered market filled with cafés, antique stalls, local crafts and traditional food vendors. Together, the tango and the market perfectly capture the vibrant atmosphere that makes San Telmo one of the city's most distinctive neighbourhoods.

After wandering around the sights of San Telmo, we headed back to the hotel for a well-earned rest. Later that evening, we made our way to the revitalised Puerto Madero waterfront, where the old docks have been transformed into one of Buenos Aires' most vibrant dining districts.