Hanoi
Day 1 · 22 November 2024
Our first evening in Hanoi took us around Hoàn Kiếm Lake, across the red Thê Húc Bridge to Ngọc Sơn Temple, on to a traditional water puppet show, and finally to a bowl of phở bò in the busy streets near the lake.
Arrival in Hanoi
After an overnight flight from London, with a few hours’ layover in Qatar, we arrived in Hanoi around lunchtime. A pre-booked taxi took us from the airport into the city and to our hotel on the edge of Hoàn Kiếm Lake, right in the heart of Hanoi.
After a couple of hours’ rest to catch up on some much-needed sleep, we headed out in the early evening for our first look at the city.
Our first evening in Hanoi
There were two things we particularly wanted to see on our first evening: Ngọc Sơn Temple, set on a small island in Hoàn Kiếm Lake and reached by the distinctive red Thê Húc Bridge, and one of Hanoi’s traditional water puppet shows. Beyond that, the plan was simply to explore and find somewhere local to eat.
The roads around the lake were closed to traffic, making it a lovely place to wander along the lakeside promenade. Hanoi seemed to be out for the evening. Families and groups of friends filled the streets and open spaces around the lake, many dressed in traditional national dress, while the lights of the city reflected across the water.
After the long journey from London and a few hours’ sleep, it was quite a change of scene. The crowds, lights, food and sheer amount of life around the lake made for a wonderful first introduction to Hanoi — and to Southeast Asia.
Ngọc Sơn Temple
Ngọc Sơn Temple sits on a small island towards the northern end of Hoàn Kiếm Lake, reached by the brightly painted red Thê Húc Bridge. The lake takes its name from the legend of Emperor Lê Lợi, who is said to have returned a magical sword to a golden turtle here after defeating the Ming forces in the 15th century. Giant softshell turtles really did live in the lake, adding another layer to the story, and a preserved specimen is displayed inside the temple complex. Surrounded by the lights and bustle of modern Hanoi, the temple, lake and legend provide a fascinating connection with the city's much older history.
Hanoi’s Water Puppets
Our next stop was a traditional Vietnamese water puppet show, an art form that originated in the flooded rice fields of northern Vietnam centuries ago. The brightly painted wooden puppets appear to move across the surface of the water, controlled by puppeteers hidden behind a screen and accompanied by traditional Vietnamese music. Colourful and lively, it was unlike anything we had seen before and another memorable part of our first evening in Hanoi.
An Evening Walk and a Taste of Hanoi
After the puppet show, we slowly wandered back towards the hotel, taking the opportunity to enjoy more of the atmosphere around the lake. On the way we stopped at a small street restaurant to try phở bò, Vietnam’s traditional beef noodle soup, before continuing our walk through the busy evening streets. With no particular hurry to get back, we simply wandered, ate and took in the city around us.